January 15, 2014
Leonard Logsdail Traditionally Bespoke Series Part 2
I had the pleasure of meeting Leonard Logsdail back in 2010. He introduced me to the world and art of bespoke clothing. Originally from the United Kingdom, Len started his business 42 years ago. His story is one that resonates with me in the sense of perseverance. Len left school at the age of 15 and went to tailoring school where he was taught the difference in cloths and how to cut them so that they compliment a man’s body. Graduating with top honors from The College of Fashion, he started his own business at the age of 21. During that time he built a client base in Europe and in the USA making periodic trips. In 1991, he crossed the pond and settled in NYC to expand his business.
Leonard is passionate about his skill. I mentioned I was doing this blog series and I approached him to see if he would be interested in becoming part of this series. Without hesitation, he was delighted to be a part of this so that he too could help me educate people on the difference between bespoke and made to measure. He finds people or businesses that refer to themselves as bespoke when they clearly are not, offensive to him and his trade. In fact, it’s been officially adjudicated in the UK courts regarding the usage of the word “bespoke” as far as tailoring is concerned. As Len puts it, “absolutely, the person who measures you should be the person who cuts your pattern and fits you, otherwise he’s simply a salesman and a wannabe fitter.”
Len is a master at what he does. He considers himself a traditional tailor. I asked him if he would create a suit for a person who likes to wear Hugo Boss. His response was, “I would tell that person Hugo Boss makes brilliant suits. I suggest you go to them if that’s what you are looking for.” As he explains it, “yes I take his measurements, make the pattern and add nuances irrelevant of measurements to adhere to the persons physique.” Normally he will only have two fittings to include the first basted fitting. He is revered as the “go to” person when it comes to bespoke clothing. So much so, that most costume designers come to him for feature films like the recent Wolf of Wall Street. He did all the suits for Leonardo DiCaprio, Jonah Hill, Rob Reiner, Matthew McConaughey, Jon Favreau and Ethan Suplee. He was also featured in the film.
Leonard has created a cozy setting for the refined gentleman to come and partake in some fine scotch while discussing his custom shirts made in collaboration with Hilditch and Key, cloths for his suit as well as hunting attire with his ready to wear/bespoke collection Logsdail Classic. Generally his suits start at $6,000 and vary in price due to the selection of cloth. The dress shirts range from $350 to $595. If you are in NYC I suggest making an appointment with Len. Tell him The Refined Gent sent you. Remember looking good and feeling good is all that matters.